Boot or shoe and method of making same



Aug. 10 1926. 1,595,453

P. COLELLA BOOT 0R SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Oct. 8. 1921 If'y.1

Patented Aug. 10, 1926.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

PASQUALE COLELLA, OF SWAKPSUOTT, MASSACHUSETTS, ABSIGNOR, BY HEBNE AS- SIGNHEHTS, '10 UNITED SHOE KACH HIEBY CORPORATION, OF PATEBSON, HEW JERSEY, A. CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

BOO'I OB SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING BAKE.

Application filed October 8. 1981. 881111 Io. 806,821.

This invention relates to boots and shoes and the process of makiu the same, and more particularly to a novefprocess of making a modified McKay type shoe and to the shoe produced by practising the rocess.

Heretofore in order to obtain a thin light edge and shank it has been customary to manufacture shoes by the turn process, but saiglI shoes lack strength and long wearing u ity.

q One object of the present invention is to produce a type of shoe which will provide wear from the full thickness of the outsole, as in a welt shoe, but which may have its outsole fitted in such a manner as to give the shoe the appearance of a thin or feather edged turn s cc, an impossibility in welt shoe making, or with a different edge, as may be desired. Accordingly a feature of the invention contemplates a mode of attachment of the outsole, in a. McKay type shoe, whereby it is secured to the upper materials alone, throughout theforepart and shank, in combination with a flexible insole also secured to the upper materials alone,-whereby an edge appearance desired may be ob taine by properly fittin the outsole and moulding it accordingly Ey direct pressure leveling.

Other objects of the invention are to produce a more flexible shoe than the McKay or Goodyear welt, which may be manufactured more cheaply and yet have a fine appearance, long wearing qualities, and extreme comfort on the foot. These objects are accomplished by the elimination of lasting tacks; and consequently the full iron-bottom last; the use of a substitute mode of lasting which does not require the usual heavy insole; the use of an extremely light insole so fitted as to cover the outsole stitchi and leave a perfectly smooth interiortre surface; and the use of a longwearing outsole of d stock.

0 the accomplishment of these objects and such others as may hereinafter appear, as will readily be understood by those skilled in the art, the invention comprises the features and combinations of parts, together with the novel recess of manufacture, here inafter descri ed and then particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

The preferred form of the invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings in which Figure 1 is a plan view of an insole, for pointed toe shoes, fitted in the novel manner required for the present invention; Fig. 2 is a transverse section on the line 2-2, Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional view of a partly completed shoe in which the novel msolc is embodied; Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional view of the same shoe at a later sta of its construction; Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view of the completed shoe; and Fi 6 is a cross-sectional view at the tip of t e toe of a completed shoe, having a pointed toe.

In the form of the invention illustrated in the drawings on insole blank 10 is slit at its edge to form two over-lying marginal lips 11 and 12. If the shoe to be manufactured has a round too, this edge slit is continuous from the breast line of one side to the breast line of the other. In the pointed toe style, however it being difficult to stitch a pointed toe, the preferred construction of the new insole is as is shown in Fig. 1, i. e. the edge slit is discontinuous and extends on each side from substantially the tip line to the breast line. At the ends of these slits are four marginal cuts 13, thus detaching said ends from the body of the insole and leaving the lips connected to said body only alongthe base of the slit. In completing the fitting of the insole, the lips 11 and 12 are folded back upon opposite sides of the insole, as shown more particularly in Fi 3. While the insole'blank originally is t e full width of the bottom of the last, the turning back of these lips produces an insole which is narrower than the bottom of the last throughout the len 11 of the lips.

he insole 10 is now assembled upon the bottom of a last 14, as shown in Fig. 3, the shoe-maker positioning it by the heel and too. An upper 15 is also assembled on the last in the usual way, and is lasted in place by temporary lasting tacks (not shown). At this sta of the manufacture of the shoe the inlaste margin of the up 1' lies in contact with the under, iufold lips 11 of the insole 10. The next operation is to secure the upper in place, and this is preferably accomplished by fastening the inlasted mar- 'in of the upper to the lips 11 by a line of iasteners such as the step es 16 sip-Iliad by lpeer stapling mac e (see the Goodyear u Fig. 3). It wil understood that the upper heel seat is tacked as usual, and in the the bottom is led with the usual cor filling 17 and an outsole 18, having the usual marginal channel 19, is ap lied to the bottom of the part] complet shoe and layed. The last 14 is en pulled and the outsole is McKay stitched, as at 20, to the u per, the horn of the stitcher contactin wit the upper where it is left exposed the mfolded position of the upper inso e lips 12 (see Fig. 4). To complete the shoe the msole lips 12, after being tempered in any convenient manner, are layed back over the Mo- Kay stitching as shown in 5. It will be observed that both lines o securement lie within the edge of the insole. The outsole channel fla 21 are layed and the shoe bottom is love ed, preferably by a direct pressure leveller, as is usual in McKay shoemaking.

As already mentioned, in manufacturing the style of shoes having a ointed the insole, forward of substanti ly the tip line,

is not slit at its edge, and at this rtiou of the shoe the upper is secured rectly to the insole by lasting tacks 22 Fig. 6),

the outsole being secured to both t e up r and insole by staples, or other metallic astenors 23, but in other styles of shoes having a round toe the McKay stitching may be continuous throughout the forepart and shank of the shoe.

In the manufacture of this shoe it is proposed to employ an extremely thin light insole blank 10 of not more than two irons in thickness. The edge slit is referably centrally of the thickness of t e insole, thus producing two over-lying lips 11 and 12 each of which is substantially one iron 1n thickness. In the manufacture of the shoe as described. the upper is secured to that one of those lips which lies on the under side of the insole, and the fasteners are of a kind that do not impair the flexibility of the shoe. It will be observed also that the McKay stitching extends only through the outsole and the margin of the uppgaso that, after the upper inso e lip 12 has n layed, both the lines of fustenings in the completed shoe are wholly below the insole. This leaves an absolutel smooth sock surface on which the foot of t e wearer rests renderi this portion of the shoe the equal in comfort of a welt shoe.

The advantages of the novel shoe construc tion will be apparent to those skilled in the art. The Ii t weight insole and absence of lasting taste provides a very flexible shoe and the novel mode of securing the arts togethor also promotes flexibility. Further- 1,ses,4ss

more no slip sole is required for covering the iastenings to provide a smooth sock surface since in the completed shoe the insole is the full width of the last bottom. As already referred to, the smooth sock surace is present as a result of the improved constructional features. Byeproperly fitting the outsole the shoe may given the a penrance of a turn shoe and yet the washneseesof the turn shoe are overcome i. e. the resent shoe has a more solid and manon securement of the outsole, the outsole will give wear throughout its entire thickness, and the lining will fit and he unwrinkled. While presenting the same appearance the present shoe is cheaper to manufacture than a turn since it does not require the hi h quali of stock that must be used to wiaistand strain of turning. While the new shoe is of the McKay t e a saving is made in the insole stock an in {:16 e imination of the full iron bottomed The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and the preferred construction of the shoe and its rooms of manufacture having been spec cally described, what is claimed as new, is:-

1. A boot or shoe comprising upper meteriel an outsole; an insole having the full widt of the last bottom; and means securing the insole and outaole to the inlseted margin of the upper materials, but not to each other.

2. A boot or shoe comprising an insole having upper and lower marginal lips; upper materials secured to one of said lips; and an out-sole secured to the 11 per materials alone at a (point up te to other lip, whereby sni other ip overlies said last :lamed line of securement in the finished 8. A boot or shoe comprising an insole having the full width of the last; on outsole; upper materials having their marginal portion interposed between the insole and outsole; and means within the edge of said insole for securing said materials to both the insole and outsole, said means for securin the insole to the upper lying between the insole and outsole and said means for securing the outsole to the upper lying below the insole and unattached t ereto.

4. A boot or shoe having an insole split at its edge to form two lips, the under lip so formed being infolded and to which the inlasted margin of the upper materials is secured; an outsole; and faetenings securin the upper materials to the outsole hence the upper lip formed by splitting the insole.

5. boot or shoe having an insole provided with a mar al lip; upper materials contacting said 1 staple fastenings securing said materia s to said 11 an outsole; stitching outside said staple asteuings eecuring said materials to the outsole; and a second marginal lip on the insole overlying said stitching, but unattached to the upper materials.

6. An insole having its edge slit at each side from a point adjacent the tip line to a point adjacent the ball line at least, the two lips thus formed being folded back from the base of the slit on to the body of the insole at opposite sides thereof.

7. An insole, too thin to be channeled successfully, having its edge slit centrally at each side adjacent the shank and ball at least, forming two overlying lips, and having marginal slits through the insole at the ends of said lips thus detaching said ends from the body of the insole.

8. An insole substantially two irons in weight having its edge and margin so cut at each side as to form two one iron lips at each side, attached to the insole at their bases only, extending approximately from the tip to the heel seat, said lips being turned and set on the opposite sides of the adjacent stock of the insole body.

9. The method of making boots or shoes which includes the steps of assembling an insole and an upper on a last, the blank forming the insole being the full width' of the last; securing the inlasted margin of said upper to the insole along a line within its edge; applying an outsole; and securing the outsole to the upper alone beneath the margin of the insole.

10. The method of making boots or shoes which includes the steps of assembling an insole and an upper on a last; securing the inlasted margin of the upper to the insole by fastening means that do not project through the upper side of the insole; applying an outsole; and securing the upper to the outsole leaving the margin of the insole outside of said fastening means unsecured to the outsole or the upper.

11. The method of making boots or shoes which includes the steps of assembling on a last an upper, and an insole having two lips at each margin, which together equal the entire thickness of the insole, previously folded back upon opposite sides of the body of the insole; securing the inlasted margin of the upper to the infolded insole lip against which it lies; applying an outsole; securing the outsole to the upper adjacent the line of securement of the upper to the insole; and turning the infolded insole lips, inside the shoe, outward over the upper which lies outside the bases of said lips.

12. The method of making boots or shoes which includes fittin an insole with two lips at each margin; golding both lips back upon opposite sides of the body of the insole; assembling said insole and an upper on a last; lasting the upper and stapling its inlasted margin to the infolded lip on the under side of the insole; pulling the last; applying an outsole to the shot bottom; stitching the outsole to the upper outside the bases of the infolded lips; and laying the lip at the upper side of the insole over the stitching.

13. As an article of manufacture, an insole having on one side 21 mar inally extending lip for the attachment 0 a shoe up er and having the margin of the insole fol ed back on itself on each side of the insole between substantially the tip line and'the heel breast line of the insole.

14. A shoe comprising an upper, an insole having a channel lip to which the upper is secured on its under side, an outsole attached to the shoe upper by through and through stitches Whic do not penetrate the insole and are covered by the margin of the insole on the interior of the shoe.

15. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing an inner sole with a flexible margin at the sides from the tip line to the breast line, folding said margin back to engage the sole bottom, lasting and permanently securing the upper to the innersole, attaching the upper to the outsole only by a line of fastenings outside the fold of the innersole, and restoring the folded margin of the innersole to its original position.

PASQUALE COLELLA.

curin said materials to the outsole; and a secon marginal lip on the insole overlying said stitching, but unattached to the upper materials.

6. An insole having its edge slit at each slde from a point adjacent the tip line to a point adjacent the ball line at least, the two lips thus formed being folded back from the base of the slit on to the body of the insole at opposite sides thereof.

7. An insole, too thin to be channeled successfully, having its edge slit centrally at each side adjacent the shank and ball at least, forming two overlying lips, and having marginal slits throu h the insole at the ends of said lips thus etaching said ends from the body of the insole.

8. An insole substantially two irons in weight having its edge and margin so cut at each side as to form two one iron lips at each side, attached to the insole at their bases only, extending approximately from the tip to the heel seat, said lips being turned and set on the opposite sides of the adjacent stock of the insole body.

9. The method of making boots or shoes which includes the steps of assembling an insole and an upper on a last, the blank forming the insole bein the full width of the last; securing the inlasted margin of said upper to the insole along a line within its edge; applying an outsole; and securing the outsole to the upper alone beneath the margin of the insole.

10. The method of making boots or shoes which includes the steps of assembling an insole and an upper on a last; securing the inlasted margin of the upper to the insole by fastening means that do not project through the upper side of the insole; applying an outsole; and securing the upper to the outsole leaving the margin of the insole outside of said fastening means unsecured to the outsole or the upper.

11. The method of making boots or shoes which includes the steps of assembling on a. last an upper, and an insole having two lips at each margin, which together equal the entire thickness of the insole, previously folded back upon opposite sides of the body of the insole; securing the inlasted mar in of the upper to the infolded insole ip against whlch it lies; applying an outsole; securing the outsole to the upper adjacent the line of securement of the up er to the insole; and turning the infolded msole lips, inside the shoe, outward over the upper which lies outside the bases of said lips.

12. The method of making boots or shoes which includes fittin an insole with two lips at each margin; oldin both lips back upon opposite sides of the liody of the insole; assembling said insole and an upper on a last; lasting the upper and stapling its inlasted margin to the infolded lip on the under side of the insole; ulling the last; applying an outsole to tiie shot bottom; stitching the outsole to the upper outside the bases of the infolded lips; and laying the lip at the upper side of the insole over the stitching.

13. As an article of manufacture, an insole having on one side a mar inally extending lip for the attachment 0% a shoe up er and having the margin of the insole fol ed back on itself on each side of the insole between substantially the tip line and the heel breast line of the insole.

14. A shoe comprising an upper, an insole having a channel lip to which the upper is secured on its under side, an outsole attached to the shoe u per by through and through stitches which do not penetrate the insole and are covered by the margin of the insole on the interior of the shoe.

15. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing an inner sole with a flexible margin at the sides from the tip line to the breast line, folding said margin back to engage the sole bottom, lasting and permanently securing the upper to the innersole, attaching the upper to the outsole only by a line of fastenings outside the fold of the innersole, and restoring the folded margin of the innersole to its original position.

PASQUALE COLELLA.

Certificate of Correction.

It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 1,595,453, granted August 10, 1926, upon the application of Pasquale Colella, of Swam scott, Massachusetts, for an improvement in Boots or Shoes and Methods of Ma mg bame, an error appears in the printed specification requiring correction as follows; Page 1, line 108, before the word heel insert the words at the; and that the said Letters Patent should be read with this correction therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Ofiice.

Signed and sealed this 14th day of December, A. D. 1926.

[sun] M. J. MOORE, Acting Gammissz'oner of Patents.

Certificate of Gorrection.

It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 1,595,453, granted August 10, 1926, upon the application of Pasquale Colella, of Swarn scott, Massachusetts, for an improvement in Boots or Shoes and Methods of Ma ing Same," an error appears in the printed specification requiring correction as follows: Page 1, line 108, before the word heel insert the words at the; and that the said Letters Patent should be read with this correction therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Ofiice.

Signed and sealed this 14th day of December, A. D. 1926.

[SEAL] M. J. MOORE,

Acting Commissioner of Patents. 

